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I was driving up Halstead Ave. in Mamaroneck when I noticed the lights on at a new spot called Osteria Sardegna. It turns out to be a second coming for veteran restaurateur Vittorio Scarpa and his family who had operated a restaurant featuring the rustic dishes of Sardinia back in 2007 in Larchmont. 

He has taken over the space once occupied by Padre Pio. A quick look inside and it is a charmer, filled with the art and artifacts of his native island off the coast of Italy’s west coast. Scarpa, who came from a family of cooks, started in the food service business at his family’s restaurants in Sardinia and Rome, then came to the States in the 80s and has been involved in the field in Los Angeles and New York City. 

The 40-seat dining room is lined with lovely photos and prints of his native Sardinia. According to Scarpa, the roots of Sardinian cuisine come from fresh ingredients, nothing frozen. Sardinians are very proud of their fresh fish from the Mediterranean, roast pig, homemade breads, milk and cheese from goats, sheep and cows, and homegrown fruits, vegetables and herbs, garlic being of primary importance.

The opening menu offers such great starters as Pane Carasau, thin, flat and crispy Sardinian bread with mozzarella cheese, rosemary and olive oil; Bombas alla Sarda, meatballs, Sardinian style with tomato sauce and pecorino cheese; Arancini Quattro Formaggi, arborio rice, ricotta cheese, Sardinian pecorino, mozzarella and parmesan; Involtini di Melanzane, eggplant and ricotta, pecorino in tomato sauce; Arugula Salad with pears and gorgonzola in a lemon dressing; traditional Caesar Salad, and Calamari Fritti. 

Robust pasta specialties include Malloreddus, Sardinian style pasta with beef ragu; Culingiones, ravioli stuffed with pecorino, ricotta, garlic and basil sauce; Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe; Orecchiette Rapini, pasta with sausage and broccoli rabe, garlic & olive oil; and Linguine with eggplant and burrata cheese in tomato sauce.

Hearty main courses include Chicken Scarpariello, boneless with sausage, cherry peppers, served with penne, tomato sauce; Branzino alla Vermentino, sauteed with Sardinian white wine served with sauteed vegetables; Bistecca alla Sarda, grilled steak with broccoli rabe and roasted potatoes; Pork Chop Agrodolce Sardinian Style, double cut pork chop with vinegar peppers, rosemary and assorted vegetables; and Chicken Milanese. Breaded with an arugula chopped salad, olives, mozzarella, tomatoes and shaved parmigiana in a balsamic and lemon dressing. Daily specials augment the menu.

Osteria Sardegna Italian Restaurant is located at 501 Halstead Ave., Mamaroneck. 914-315-1580.  The restaurant is open Tuesday through Sunday from 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. A bit later on weekends. Closed Mondays. Cozy bar and cocktails. Major credit cards. Proper casual dress. Free parking. Reservations accepted.  www.osteriasardegna.com 

(Morris Gut is a restaurant marketing consultant and former trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the food and dining scene in greater Westchester for over 30 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net)